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NYC FASHION WEEK SUMMER 2014 ALL BLACK REVIEW

First of all, i would like to say, that, this is not a review about the whole collections from each brand, just few looks, based on black, the rest is of course in colors, but as you may know this is not the point of this blog! 

So, to resume this NY fashion week, i will say: it could be better but there is some exeptions. I know that ny fashion week is well known for being more wearable than creative, and that’s the whole problem. It’s a show, people don’t wanna see clothes that we can see everywhere, at h&m & co, we want a firework, creation, originality, something that make us dream, and that give us inspiration.

We don’t need inspiration from a basic tank top, and a pencil skirt. no. But as usual, we have exceptions. I selected  few brands, who i think have nice shapes and cuts, originality or something.

Let’s begin….THE REVIIIIEWW!!

 

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TIBI: There is not so much research here, but a little effort with the shapes, they succeded to avoid the “convent summer 2014″ trend, with a elbow lenght sleeves, a little bit of textures as leather or fringes, and the come back of the bermuda show that Tibi knows how to treat well 90′s trends. 

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CUSHNIE ET OCHS: You need to see, the rest of the collection who is white, and grey, to understand, that they made a great collection. Of course, i don’t think i will be able to wear this in Paris, but if you living in LA or NY, in these kind of dresses, be sure to make some serious havoc. Which girl doesn’t want to be in one of these dresses, once? For sure they aren’t daylooks but one night beauties.

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J MENDEL: Very nice interpretation of lace, giving it a neo-texture, instead of using the usual black lace, they used different shapes of honeycomb laces, and give it geometric shapes, it looks like a classy version of roberto cavalli’s famous outfits and dresses. They still keep a little bit of flower, but the neo-honeycombs avoid the “mourning” look.The  shapes combinations between the top and the bottom  are nice, the only minus would  be ,beware of not hook yourself everywhere with that kind of lace. But at least, there is a real research of creation. Good job.

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VERA WANG: Finally one who made her homework this summer! One of the best collection by far. Knowing how it’s hard to work with fishnet without falling into a vulgar look, Vera Wang succeeded to master it brilliantly. The game of shades with the plain black and the fishnet is really original, the geometric shapes very interesting, and she really gave a womanhood and lightness to a usual banal and vulgar fabric. The mix with the plain black and chiffon silk give texture to these amazing looks. I would love to wear these beauties.

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ALEXANDER WANG: this collection makes me think of Levi’s, who launched years ago this famous dark denim jean with noticeable stitchings. Alexander Wang played here with 90′s codes obviously, and (i don’t know if it’s a good thing), gives a come back to the logo mania, with making a small all over laser cut,with his logo(on the leather dress and other looks). Pretty hard to wear, the s&m/butcher overalls leather dress…but the black denim looks are wearable if you wanna give a geometric touch to a basic outfit. And we gonna pass on the black dress, who is pretty annoying. Despite that, at least he tried some new things.

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HELMUT LANG: Following the trend of this summer of, all black leather, Nicole and Michael Colovos didn’t take too much risk here, but it still works and stay in the mood of mister Lang minimal spirit. Wearable, nice shapes contrast, and we can feel a little bit of japanese touch here. (kimono top and large knee lengh pant).So faithful to themselves, and to us, we will still love the timeless style of HL, but next time, it could be great to give it a little bit of punch!

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NARCISO RODRIGUEZ: Looks like the trend of the summer 2014 will be the elbow lenght top! Narciso Rodriguez decided to follow the “convent” trend with adding to his collection austere looks, but he tried to contrast it with giving it very short lenghts and cropped top to cut the nun side. You can see too, an inspired Dior’s(Raf Simons) touch and a little bit of Valentino (look at the shoes). We can still feel the Rodriguez style in his collection, but he should be careful to not falling into copy and searching for more inspiration elsewhere than in his colleagues’s collections.

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MILLY: Fishnet, fishnet & fishnet! Looks like it’s another trend of this season. But like Vera Wang and J Mendel, Milly succeeded to do it something original.(without vulgarity). Unlike Vera Wang, they turned the fishnet into a sexy sportive look.And it works! The varsity jacket revisited and the sporty neckline are successful. We just gonna avoid the i-only-wear-my-panties-under-my-fishnet-skirt, who is a little bit too much and dangerous. But the sporty fishnet gives a graphic look with the differents layers and it will be interesting to try it with an all black basic look.

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T by ALEXANDER WANG: Great job Wangy. These 4 looks, represent to themselves a mix of Wang’s spirit. Zipped tank, sporty wetsuit, classy newyorker and geometric leather. Highly wearable, upgraded “off duty” style and this way the T’s collection will always saves Wang if one day he makes a massacre with his main line.

So! To resume NYFW summer 2014 “all black”: Sporty, graphic, fishnet, elbow lengh, japanese, sexy ,90′s and leather!

Pictures from www.style.com

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ALL BLACK FALL 2013 CAMPAIGNS

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Saskia de Brauw for MAJE 

As all the french brands, MAJE doesn’t take too much risk, stays in this frenchy chic atmosphere, simple, raw, white background, focus on Saskia, effective and well done. The clothes selected here are pretty much basics, like you will find in a Parisian girl wardrobe.A great brand campaign, just miss a little bit of crazyness.

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Cara Delevingne for SAINT LAURENT 

As much as i love/hate Cara Delevingne, i don’t understand why they chose her to represent the “Saint Laurent women” who used to be older, confident, strong, powerful and chic. Here it’s more like a little young pure and fragil girl dressed as a sexy women….stucked in a crazy old pervert guy house far away(look at this chair) Despite that, faithful to the new image of the brand, the clothes reflect well these choices, rock grunge,rebel,borderline look and a i-can-do-everything-i-want mood. 

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BALENCIAGA by Alexander Wang

Faithful to himself, Wang chose here to keep his benchmarks, clear, structured, architectural, geometric shapes, and to give the Balenciaga’s serious touch, cut the model’s head, to focus on the clothes and the bag. It works. It’s direct, the shapes from the model contrast with the background lines, the dress and the bag. A little bit inhuman, like “looook at the prooooduuuuuuucts”, but that’s ok.

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Sam Rollinson for J BRAND

Shooted by Craid Mc Dean, how is it possible to mix great taste with bad taste? Look at the top, look at the bottom. Fresh clean cuts with a Helmut Lang inspiration, beautiful top,jacket, necklace etc and then….the bottom. Fashion police please? Can she even breathe in this jean? eerrrgh, this jean is awful, vulgar, at least they should put a 7/8 cut to the jean, not this lenght…and the shoes??? wtf? Are they coming from Pigalle? Needle heels + lace+ platform + wait for it: tiny ankle straps?? ok: DISMISSED or cut the bottom!!

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Léa Seydoux for RAG & BONE

Great job R&B, great job! Beautiful photos, a fresh actress and not a top, natural poses, NYC local background, shifted picture,to put the logo on the right and create a rebound for the eyes(usually it’s the inverse, our eye read from left to the right and we are used to put the most important thing on the right). Wearable clothes, you can easily project yourself in it. Perfect.

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Daria Werbowy for ISABEL MARANT

I’m not gonna lie, i’m a fan of IM and Daria, and there is nothing to say, admit it, it’s perfect!( i’m just not sure for the skirt’s lenght…)

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Vanessa Axente for CALVIN KLEIN

Hello earth? hello? are we back in the 90′s? if you see the remains of the campaign, you’ll understand. Actually i wanna slap that girl in the face, and remove her “i’m a perfect girl and i reserve myself for the mariage, and i’m the perfect housewife”. please kill me. At least you don’t see the shoes, actually i chose this picture because in the others, they are here, and i wanted to avoid you this hell. What i have to say, well, it’s empty, already seen, too basic, too calm, too healthy, to 90′s(the bad side), too… please someone shake this girl and give her some LSD!!!

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Edie Campbell for ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

R.I.P genius Mc Queen, after the lazy b*tch above, a little bit of crazyness and weird doesn’t hurt. Like the work of McQ, the campaign reflects well his usual atmosphere and genius : ART. It’s not a dress, it’s a embroidered cathedral,the model is at the second place, like erased, to leave the spotlight to the creation. A piece of fashion art created to make Mc Queen stay alive…Long live Mc Queen!!!

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Karlie Kloss for IRO

As IRO is the kind of same family than MAJE-SANDRO & CO, this campaign is pretty the same exept the clothes. And that’s why i love IRO, compared to Maje or the others same kind of brands, they make a little effort to bring to the parisian wardrobe a little bit of originality, edgy grunge and rock style. Wouhou, hips knotted plaid shirt! What a madness for french girls…i’m kidding. Helmut Lang style jacket, out of bed hairs, this is the french girl at night. Maje is the one at day. 

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Sigrid Agren for SPORTMAX

Hum, i would say that the dress saved the shoot. At least the huge leather side cuts. A little bit basic, they should take a brunette to give a little peps to the dress, she looks like” omg, are you taking my picture??” and too wise…even the background is well…flat. NEXT!

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Karmen Pedaru for TRUE RELIGION

Hum…very interesting…Mikael Jansson succeeded to capture the essense of black. Helmut Newton light style, good contrast with a little iridescent shade, the dust blow everything and the result is amazing. For a jean’s brand, the look is well selected, this way, it doesn’t need any background for this gorgeous shoot. Natural, rock, rebel, dirty but chic, heeeeellll yeah!

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Malgosia Bela for ALEXANDER WANG

Steven Klein knows how to take pictures for sur. Arty atmoshpere, white contrast with the smoke, who give some texture, a black graphic line made by the pole, highlighted by the brand,a grained contrast and a Melgosia who turns her back to the camera, to give the spotlight to the clothes.Beautiful shoot.

So, first of all, i need to say that i didn’t took all of the pictures from the shoots, you must know that they aren’t all black, i just focused on one or 2 (the black of course), so the point of view that i give is only for the ones above… The rest of the shoot are available on fashiongonerogue.com

So i think that there is the winners and the loosers of this “black” fall 13 campaign, my favourite are TRUE RELIGION, WANG and RAG&BONE, and the looser oscar goes to CAAAALVIINN KLEEEIIIINNN!!

I think that, for an all black fall/winter, they should take more risk, more arty ways and more originality…but as usual they have specifications they need to follow, and have to please everyone…But in general, we gonna say….hum that’s ok.NEXT!!!

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FASHION SERVICES

As a swissknife, i am able to propose you some creative services and consulting for you.During 6 years, i studied fashion design, fashion history, arts, visual communication, packaging, branding… I’ve worked for brands and magazines like Azéddine Alaïa, Citizen K and more.I can bring you services such as:    

-STYLING  (help you in your photoshoots, explain you fashion photography and stylism)

-FASHION CONSULTING (help you to launch and position  your brand, to avoid mistakes, to explain you the different markets, or if you already have a brand, improve it, bring out the best of it, lead you to find suppliers, how to be efficient in fashion trade fairs…)

-BRANDING/packaging/visual com (create your visual branding, stationery, packaging, image, logo, lookbooks)

i’m a swissknife, and i will be happy to help (for less than a usual expensive creative)

email me at : thelightabsorption@gmail.com

(i put a SERVICES category below the ABOUT section if you need my help!)

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HAMPUS BERGGREN

Everyone knows that, designers who are coming out from the Central Saint Martin school, are usually genius, or with a huge avant garde touch, and a artistic and original near perfect sense. 

Most of the time, they dissapear into an ocean of designers, despite their creativity, and aren’t able to find the good balance between art and wearable stuff. So,poof! adios amigos.

And sometimes, there is a small ammount of designers who have the right eye, to dive into this ruthless world of fashion and survive. As HAMPUS BERGGREN. 

We can certainly see the Rick Owens/Yamamoto/Demeulemeester influences in this case. But i think it’s the first time that i see a MA fashion show collection, wearable(90% of the time it’s conceptual art,duh.), who could be an already well integrated brand, with a future.

The shapes and cuts are really nice, and the silhouettes well constructed, there is like a little Jil Sander touch,but it’s better than a Betsey Johnson touch, isn’t it?

I don’t know if his collection is to sell already, or if he’s gonna launch his official brand, but for sure we need to keep an eye on it.

So congrats to him, yeaah you survived, well done!!

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www.hampusberggren.com

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PIERRE BALMAIN SPRING SUMMER 2014

Looks like the 90′s are back! Pierre Balmain, the affordable line of Balmain, give us here a grunge seattle style for the spring/summer 2014.

Forgotten, the over embellished looks and french atmosphere. This lookbook and collection dive us into a Nirvana mood. In the opposite of the other brands this season who claim the come back of a pure white and bright colors, Pierre Balmain decided to stay in the mood of a black summer (like this year), and brings back the 90′s theme.

Turtleneck dresses, black denim jackets, raw cut tanks tops, ripped tights, oily hairs and grunge background, add to this a dirty plaid shirt and cigarettes(sorry) and you’re ready to smell like teen spirit.

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SAINT LAURENT “DANCE” VIDEO

Hedi Slimane, is without a doubt, a great director, these videos launched few days ago are the proof of it. Black & white, Gracie Van Gastel & Lida Fox models. A craaaazzzy bewitching music by the group Cherry Glazerr “trick or treats”. The atmosphere is perfect, the Saint Laurent’s touch is here, the Hedi Slimane’s vision too. The two womens, are like in a Parisian chic trance. Everything is perfect except…. it’s for the launch of a Saint Laurent ballerinas shoes collection. Yes. Like the 2 pair of ballerinas you see(in a nano second) in the videos. Ugly as hell, isn’t it? 

Starting from the point, that the ballerinas shoes that we see have nothing original, look like Repetto ballerinas, or worse china ballerinas that we can find in every corner of every city in the world. 

So i think. that. They wanted to compensate the certainly overpriced insignificant china-ish ballerinas with an amazing video. well see and well done….Trick or treats!!

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DIESEL BLACK GOLD CAMPAIGN FALL 2013 REVIEW

I don’t know if it’s because Nicola Formichetti, is now at the artistic head of Diesel, but looks like Diesel Black Gold ( i think the only GOOD Diesel) is turning pretty well. Exept on one point.

Everyone will notice some inspiration coming from Belstaff (the pocket jacket), Saint Laurent (the smoking jacket) and Balmain (the embroideries/studs overdose). For sur DBG gained in desirability, in a (finally) credible and good looking campaign, in easily wearable clothes, but at the end it’s always the same story. Loosing your DNA, copy everyone, because everyone else make money, so you do the same. And that’s what happened here. They wanted to upgrade the image of Diesel but they should find the good balance between the usual old bad taste of Diesel DNA and a deep dive into the trendy high end brands.

Of course there is nothing bad to say about this campaign and collection, exept that now it looks like Sandro, Maje, Iro, Saint Laurent, Balmain, Isabel Marant. Do the test, we could remove the “Diesel Black Gold” font on the campaign and replace it by the names above. 

Sad but true. F*ckin fashion standardization.

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LIGHT ABSORPTION PRODUCTS

Few days ago, when i launched the Light Absorption concept store,after take a look to the site, some friends told me that they found the products expensive…

So i wanna explain this point, because not everyone know what’s behind each products, and i should have explain it before !

Paris was, well known for his craftsmanship decades ago, with time, the proffessions started to loose people who wanted to work as craftsman such ash houses like Lemarié(feathers), Lesage(embroideries), Hermès(leather/and yes they struggle to find craftsman) , Couture houses and their “small hands” and small houses who work on other handwork.

Time passed, and people of course didn’t wanted to get a small salary for a huge, exhausting, complicated work. Everyone wants to get a lot of money without make an effort. that’s how it is now. (my mom is a proof of this time,(she’s born in 1945) and is always yelling at me with her “at my time, people were working hard without complain!! and bla bla bla “)

And also, french craftsmanship, who disappeared get this “old dusty image”, and it’s sad, because, Paris was the capital of Fashion, and now it’s started to slowly go to a “museum city”, loosing her Fashion traditions.

So, as a real fashion lover, a lover of my city, craftsmanship and beautiful things who take time to get created, i wanted to bring back this french craftsmanship, to make it younger, fun, and from our time, and also because, i’m tired of these mountains of plastic accessories made in china,or by high end brands who put exessive prices on leather bags who are finally also made in china with machines and childs workin on it.

So let me explain the prices of my products. First, it’s luxury products. not mass market. Real luxury, includes that product are only made by hand, with the best materials. And that’s what it is. 

I’ve selected the best leathers from USA, Italy and France. the “Nappa” lamb leather, is one of the most expensive calfskin, Ostrich also. And even the full grain leathers, i choose the best. (Because i like beautiful skins and i’m perfectionnist). The fact that i’m not a huge multinational company with a infinite bank account, i can’t affort to buy leathers by packages, and everyone knows that, the more you buy, the less it cost, so when i’m buying skins i’m buying them one by one, so with the most expensive price, with my money that i won working on some exhausting small works. I’m saying that, to explain you, that i don’t care to spend this money to do that instead of saving it for something else, because i really love to create unique products for people, and to know that they are somewhere on the planet with their owner.

For the rest of the materials, i use the best cottons, the best silks, the best everything! and when i create products i spend most of the time 2 or 3 days on each, sometimes more for the embroideries. And i like that. I like taking my time to create a product from nothing, by hand. It’s funny because, usually i’m the least patient person on the earth, and i get calm when i spend a lot of time on the products, because i looooooove create.

So, when you see a product, you know now, that there is a story behind, a huge handwork, a lot of time, and a bunch of great materials. And that’s why the luxury craftsmanship has a price. Such as a Kelly Hermès bag, who is made by only one craftsman in one month, by hand, like his baby…and you see the price? between 4000 and 20000 euro. 

I’m not Hermès obviously, i can’t compare my products to their. It’s luxury level 99. But, i’m trying, to do it at my level, at least, i try. And as a craftsman, i try to do the best to combine a luxury work to a cheap price, but a honest price.

Thaaaaat’s it!

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LIGHT ABSORPTION CONCEPT STORE OPEN!!

Annnnd….it’s open!!! click HERE to discover the Light Absorption concept store!!

So this is the introduction from the world of Light Absorption!!

MYSTERIOUS & ATTRACTIVE DARKNESS, POWERFULL, TIMELESS, ELEGANT WITH THIS INEXPLICABLE AURA…BLACK WILL ALWAYS BE IN OUR HEARTS AND IN OUR WARDROBE. AS A REFLECT OF OURSELVES, AS A SHELL AGAINST THE WORLD, BLACK IS AN EXTENSION OF US. AND LIGHT ABSORPTION IS HIS ANTHEM.

This unique concept store, has been created to offer you the best of black, of handmade, and one of a kind products.

Instead of being another basic concept store, with a bunch of luxury( made in china) products, worn by everyone, in every magazine, on every bloggers, Light Absorption bring the concept store to a fresh new level.

First, it’s all black. Each month, find a whole range of differents products who are totally handmade in Paris, in the tradition of the french craftsmanship. With high end materials, such as silks,leathers, embroideries and more. And the best part is that, each product is made in one copy, no more. A one and unique model, who won’t be produced again. So you will be the one and only owner of the creation you have chosen. Like a product made for you. Because at Light Absorption we don’t like mass market and conformity. 

You will see, on each product, a DREW MAURY label.All that because Light Absorption is the store and Drew Maury is the brand.

Drew Maury has been created few years ago by the creator of Light Absorption, a handmade french leather goods and high end products and accessories. Anne Drew, the designer, choose each leather skins, fabrics and trims according to her ideas, hand made each product in his Parisian workshop to create original and timeless creations. In the opposite of the actual fashion industry products, her creations are raw, with natural imperfections and a non industrial technique. Because perfection is boring.

Each product is made with love, and with the pleasure to know that someone will make it his own. And that’s what we want at Light Absorption.

ENJOY!!

PS: i added a SHOP button directly in the main bar, to access the store, and i put a bunch of shipping countries(i didn’t put all), if i missed your country and you want to shop don’t hesitate to send me a message, and i will add it!

Here a snapshot of the products from the concept store! hope you’ll like it! tell me what you think!! :

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LIGHT ABSORPTION CONCEPT STORE

UPDATE!!: the concept store will be open at midnight (paris time) !!

Soooo…this is it!! The project i was working on is…the opening of an all black online concept store!!!

I’m working hard on it since few months(that’s why i dissapeared a little bit), and the september 1st, i will be happy to present you my baybaayyy! I can’t tell you more, you will see, but what i can say is, its a unique “all black products” concept store, handmade, one of a kind and with a concept behind it…so stay tuned, it will be launched sunday at 11pm (Paris time) !

See you on sundayy black lovers!!!!

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HELMUT LANG NEW PRODUCTS

As usual, Michael and Nicole Colovos, from Helmut Lang know how to keep the spirit of Lang, with a touch of the current trends… Perfect shapes, leather tee dress, oversized perfecto, textured jackets and tops with the perfect minimal avant garde style that made Lang famous in the 90′s….and as usual….we want everything! 

Here, a little ” behind the scene” video of the two designers from Helmut Lang:

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All available at HELMUT LANG

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DARKLANDS BERLIN

My lovely Berlin…damn i love this city!! As usual, this city has to offer, again, the best of avant garde and original clothing design…

DARKLANDS Berlin, is one of them. A berliner concept/clothing store, who relocates each 2-4 seasons his shop. What a brilliant idea. Keep secret the best of avant guarde to avoid the mass trend…
Even with that, i think it still will be for a few Berliner, because the prices are like…quite expensive(to not say very(around 1500e for a pair of shoes), but it still can be an inspiration for everyone…

You can find some brands such as Boris Bidjan Sabieri, Anne Demeulemeester, Rick Owens, Goti, Daniel Andresen, Label Under Construction and more…well the best of the best…

And you can be sure, to find here, the most original clothes from each designers, as everyone knows that Berlin is well known for his avant guarde/artistic vision and taste, always original and bankable.

And it’s, of course, for men…actually there is a small women section, but the men’s selection is more interesting and rich, so we’ll pass(i just put a few women’s stuff in the pictures below) 

So if you have a lack of black inspiration or a huge bank account,don’t hesitate to take a look at this great store…

And if you wanna pass by, don’t forget to print the map, it’s a labyrinth to get there!!

Darklands Berlin
Heidestrasse 46 – 52, Building 7
Berlin, Tiergarten
Germany
10557

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VIRGIN BLAK

Sometimes you have to explore a little bit more than usual, the universe of fashion, and the different kind of style to find something unexpected. Usually i’m not a bit fan of extreme punk/victorian/vampire style, i think it’s too much for the all black look and it’s too “first degree” like gothic style.

But sometimes, it’s interesting to explore the unexpected to find some nice stuff.
As this store, VIRGIN BLAK, a US brand, with a large style selection, and inspired by Japan/Korean people, who are used to be dressed like this.

This shop is like a multinational style, you have some “Pyrex” inspired tees, some “Féline” tees too, psychedelic graphic clothes and accessories, victorian/vampire style, givenchy looks, “venice boardwalk” tees, a bunch of punk bracelets, some very strange stuff, some basic clothes and…….. a great selection of original(and not expensive) black clothes, shoes and accessories.

So don’t hesitate to explore this shop, behind the glass of horrors, there is a black paradise!

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Pictures from VIRGIN BLAK

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TOPSHOP & MONKI SELECTION

 

Here a MONKI selection from actual collections:0192859001_0_0 0173555007_0_0 0179895001_0_0 0182498001_0_0 0185735005_0_0 0202471001_0_0 0190728001_0_0 0193920001_0_0

and a TOPSHOP selection also from current collections: 

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FABRIXQUARE

I’m not really for the counterfeit, and obviously not a fan of the b&w ninja trend, but as everything, we have to find a balance. FABRIXQUARE is an online store, who certainly lives with the trends ( if you make all the pages on the website and go back to the first page, you will see the evolution of what i’m talking about)
And now, it’s all about the b&w ninja Pyrex-HBA & co, you can find a whole range of copies of those brands for very cheap prices, such as the famous gym short or hba long sleeves top and all the paraphernalia of the street ninjaaaa.

But, in this ocean of ninja clothes, you can find some nice pieces,(i made a short selection, but of course there is ton of more interesting things if you search well) and that’s when it gets interesting, you can change your entire wardrobe for the price of the (real) flannel Pyrex shirt(550$). enjoy!

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THE DARK SIDE OF THE FORCE

2 days ago i was in my wardrobe, searching for something to put on for the day, but something “not black”. like ok, i can wear something else than black. and the fact is, i wasn’t able to. Not that i didn’t wanted to, but i was like a  neophyte of colors, unable to find something enought nice and colored to put on me. Am i the only one? did that happened to you?? am i an ufo?  i was like, looks like i’m stucked with the black. Not in a bad way of course, but it was like i didn’t found something colored that i would like to wear, i tried, but i looked at myself in the mirror and i saw a rainbow cupcake right in front of me. 

I don’t know it if’s the fact that , get used to wear all black, all days, is such a pleasure, i mean, you don’t have to spend hours in your wardrobe. it’s so dammmn easy to wear an all black look.i loooove it.

Did i turned into the dark side of the force? 

I know i love black, and wear it all day, but i’ll prefer to have the choice. i mean, everyone prefer to have the choice. It’s funny because 5 or 6 years ago, i was the most colored person, i was a “fluo kid”. But if we come back earlier, at the beginning, i always liked black, and always loved dark colors. (i guess that fluo kid phase was due to an ex boyfriend or something like that).  

So the question is, are we defined unconsciously since the beginning?

Was i supposed to end all black dressed with no return possibility ? 

That freaks me out, really, i mean i deeply love black and everything, but knowing that there is a possibility that i only will be able to wear black till the end is really creepy.(f*cking system)

And this is entirely the fault of the “morals” who gave all this negative etiquette to black. 

It’s like the white, in our “usages” it is synonym of purity, heaven, life, bla bla bla, and in some other countries wearing white, represents death and mourning.

So the perception that we have of everything, is fucked up since the beginning, because we have learned it like that. like: good/bad.

And i don’t like the fact, that the black color, most of the time, has been associated to the bad, the dark, the sad, the death, the evil etc… i mean why they didn’t choose orange huh? i mean, the “hell” is orange, the flames are orange, fire is orange, the “devil” is orange/red etc etc this is unfair. (and who wears orange by the way) 

And the problem is, in our society, that, we judge by the appearance, and even if everybody say, i don’t care what people say or think, everyone know its false, everyone care. And as much as i love black, i see my entourage say why are u wearing all black? black? again?? are you depressed? are you ok? do you wanna see a psy?? goddammit. will it be the same with an all white look? probably: are you ok? you wanna die? do you wanna go to heaven? you think you’re god?? are you a guru?

So, to come back to the problem, the fact is, in Paris, everyone is not dressed in black but dressed in dark colors, the fault to the Iro/maje/sandro/bash gang who is almost an all in 1 brand, and most of the parisiennes are dressed like that. The all black look, is here, but the basic look, not the “danish” style. And no one wanna be dressed like everyone.

So as long as i will stay stucked in front of my half colored(R.I.P)/half black wardrobe, and choose the all black,asking,am i depressed?, i will said to myself that, finally this is  probably a good thing. wearing all black all days, push you to  show everyday,to everyone more than usual, that you’re just a full of life/happy person just dressed….all black.

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& OTHER STORIES

Ladiies! Exit the i-have-the-same-shoes/bag-than-the-half-of-the-planet with brand such as Zara & co. Finally h&m who can have the power and money to do something good, decided to do it. The fact that, today, with the massmarket and the worldwide consumption, we only have the choice between brands like h&m/zara/mango/forever 21 & co, middle high end like iro/sandro/maje and luxury designers. For the first and second categories, it’s for sure pretty easy to look like everyone, the clothes are usually of poor quality and we have to search for hours to find the holy grail piece. 

In the second category, i named it, the “joke”, because theses kind of brands such as Iro/Sandro and Maje are stucked between h&m and Alexander Wang, i mean, a basic cotton tee made in china at 90euros,wtf. and you still look like everyone. 

And for the third category, no need to explain, but as much as i love designers brand, 90% of the time, its also made in china(hello Alexander Wang), and the best of it, you spend one month work salary in the same tee, than Iro or h&m. aaaaahhh fashion.

So, when h&m decided to finally, use the Stockholm creativity mixed with a French touch, it worked.

Everyone know their “upgrade” brand, COS, which i think is a mix of a nunnery and a “i don’t wanna live on this planet anymore”. Serioulsy, each time i enter into this shop, i wanna kill myself. The athmoshpere, the clothes, the colors, please give me a bottle of cyanide.

So i think that they were close to the good “original high end” h&m, but the combination was borked. 

And the miracle, happened. I named & OTHER STORIES. As i said, on previous post, Nordic countries have such a great taste for fashion, a good creativity, stunning designs,so why did it took so long to h&m to create a brand like that? i don’t know.

Actually i know, it’s always the same thing, the “stay where you are” fashion industry. the fashion castes. the people who can afford luxury brand, don’t wanna look like people who can afford h&m, always the same story. whatever.

So the mix of the Sweden creativity mixed to the french “chic” touch (they have their workshop both in Paris and Stockholm and work together), gave pretty good products. I just (below) made a selection of accessories, because i think that’s the best of what they have to give, i mean the clothing collection…nice, but not good enought, almost there. But the accessories collection is between the affordable prices and the design, really great.They also upgraded the quality, they really made an effort. It’s a mix of Wang, Jil Sander, and Helmut Lang (the swedish style), so we have here the minimalism and colors of Sweden and a little french touch in the shapes. Swedish and French people should more often mix their creativity,and that way we could have a bunch of stunning brands. really.

Now, we can skip the “already seen billions times” brands, and start to look in & Other Stories direction, to refresh our wardrobe with original/minimalist designs.

But the endless question will be, after the fact that they certainly gonna expand their stores all over the world, will it be the next Zara in few years? ugh damn fashion.

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All available at & OTHER STORIES

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WORK IN PROGRESS

Hello everyone, sorry for the lack of post these days but it is for a good reason! Since few days i’m working on a project for Light Absorption, i can’t tell you what it is, i wanna let you the surprise, i can only tell you, that it’s of course all black, that there is some unique products and i’m working hard on it to give you the best of Light Absorption…

It’s gonna take me all august to work on it, can’t wait to present you everything!  The project will be released on the website in the beginning of september (or end of august if im workin as a mofo) So till then, i’ll do my best to continue to post as much as i can, but if i’m not, it’s not that i left the blog but that i’m working hard on this project!!! 

See you soon!!

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MILLIONBAG

I’m used to hang out on ETSY, to see some “real” creations, handcrafted stuff, for sure there is a bunch of abomination, but sometimes we can find some real pearls.

As this brand MILLIONBAG, a handcrafted leather goods brand, from Hongkong (since few months we see appears a bunch of people from Hong Kong, with taste and a stylish dark style) , but for sure this brand could be in any high end concept stores everywhere.

Raw leather, unfinished edges, and minimal style, the perfect combination for a stylish clutch, ipad or earphone organizer. Even the “stationery” presentation, is quite perfect, and i think it’s much better to get an interest in these kind of “unfamous” handmade brands, so you can’t be sure that nobody will have the same clutch than you, and you can still say “oh, this? i got it in a thrift shop” keep the good brands for you.

You can shop MILLIONBAG here.

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bottega veneta

MR PORTER ACCESSORIES SELECTION

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ACNE wallet

luminox

LUMINOX watch

brooks brothers

BROOKS BROTHERS suspenders

balenciaga

BALENCIAGA backpack

alvaro

ALVARO belt

the elder statesman

THE ELDER STATESMAN beanie

belstaff

BELSTAFF bag

amcq

ALEXANDER MC QUEEN wallet

balenciaga2

BALENCIAGA wallet

lanvin

LANVIN fedora

mulberry2

MULBERRY wallet

mulberry

MULBERRY bag

brioni

BRIONI knitted tie

gucci

GUCCI bag

marcbymarcjacobs

MARC BY MARC JACOBS clutch

charvet

CHARVET pocket square

givenchy

GIVENCHY backpack

Cover picture: BOTTEGA VENETA bracelet

All available on MR PORTER