First of all, i would like to say, that, this is not a review about the whole collections from each brand, just few looks, based on black, the rest is of course in colors, but as you may know this is not the point of this blog!
So, to resume this NY fashion week, i will say: it could be better but there is some exeptions. I know that ny fashion week is well known for being more wearable than creative, and that’s the whole problem. It’s a show, people don’t wanna see clothes that we can see everywhere, at h&m & co, we want a firework, creation, originality, something that make us dream, and that give us inspiration.
We don’t need inspiration from a basic tank top, and a pencil skirt. no. But as usual, we have exceptions. I selected few brands, who i think have nice shapes and cuts, originality or something.
Let’s begin….THE REVIIIIEWW!!
TIBI: There is not so much research here, but a little effort with the shapes, they succeded to avoid the “convent summer 2014″ trend, with a elbow lenght sleeves, a little bit of textures as leather or fringes, and the come back of the bermuda show that Tibi knows how to treat well 90’s trends.
CUSHNIE ET OCHS: You need to see, the rest of the collection who is white, and grey, to understand, that they made a great collection. Of course, i don’t think i will be able to wear this in Paris, but if you living in LA or NY, in these kind of dresses, be sure to make some serious havoc. Which girl doesn’t want to be in one of these dresses, once? For sure they aren’t daylooks but one night beauties.
J MENDEL: Very nice interpretation of lace, giving it a neo-texture, instead of using the usual black lace, they used different shapes of honeycomb laces, and give it geometric shapes, it looks like a classy version of roberto cavalli’s famous outfits and dresses. They still keep a little bit of flower, but the neo-honeycombs avoid the “mourning” look.The shapes combinations between the top and the bottom are nice, the only minus would be ,beware of not hook yourself everywhere with that kind of lace. But at least, there is a real research of creation. Good job.
VERA WANG: Finally one who made her homework this summer! One of the best collection by far. Knowing how it’s hard to work with fishnet without falling into a vulgar look, Vera Wang succeeded to master it brilliantly. The game of shades with the plain black and the fishnet is really original, the geometric shapes very interesting, and she really gave a womanhood and lightness to a usual banal and vulgar fabric. The mix with the plain black and chiffon silk give texture to these amazing looks. I would love to wear these beauties.
ALEXANDER WANG: this collection makes me think of Levi’s, who launched years ago this famous dark denim jean with noticeable stitchings. Alexander Wang played here with 90’s codes obviously, and (i don’t know if it’s a good thing), gives a come back to the logo mania, with making a small all over laser cut,with his logo(on the leather dress and other looks). Pretty hard to wear, the s&m/butcher overalls leather dress…but the black denim looks are wearable if you wanna give a geometric touch to a basic outfit. And we gonna pass on the black dress, who is pretty annoying. Despite that, at least he tried some new things.
HELMUT LANG: Following the trend of this summer of, all black leather, Nicole and Michael Colovos didn’t take too much risk here, but it still works and stay in the mood of mister Lang minimal spirit. Wearable, nice shapes contrast, and we can feel a little bit of japanese touch here. (kimono top and large knee lengh pant).So faithful to themselves, and to us, we will still love the timeless style of HL, but next time, it could be great to give it a little bit of punch!
NARCISO RODRIGUEZ: Looks like the trend of the summer 2014 will be the elbow lenght top! Narciso Rodriguez decided to follow the “convent” trend with adding to his collection austere looks, but he tried to contrast it with giving it very short lenghts and cropped top to cut the nun side. You can see too, an inspired Dior’s(Raf Simons) touch and a little bit of Valentino (look at the shoes). We can still feel the Rodriguez style in his collection, but he should be careful to not falling into copy and searching for more inspiration elsewhere than in his colleagues’s collections.
MILLY: Fishnet, fishnet & fishnet! Looks like it’s another trend of this season. But like Vera Wang and J Mendel, Milly succeeded to do it something original.(without vulgarity). Unlike Vera Wang, they turned the fishnet into a sexy sportive look.And it works! The varsity jacket revisited and the sporty neckline are successful. We just gonna avoid the i-only-wear-my-panties-under-my-fishnet-skirt, who is a little bit too much and dangerous. But the sporty fishnet gives a graphic look with the differents layers and it will be interesting to try it with an all black basic look.
T by ALEXANDER WANG: Great job Wangy. These 4 looks, represent to themselves a mix of Wang’s spirit. Zipped tank, sporty wetsuit, classy newyorker and geometric leather. Highly wearable, upgraded “off duty” style and this way the T’s collection will always saves Wang if one day he makes a massacre with his main line.
So! To resume NYFW summer 2014 “all black”: Sporty, graphic, fishnet, elbow lengh, japanese, sexy ,90’s and leather!
Pictures from www.style.com